2/12/2009

The Secret Treehouse

When I was in Siem Reap in December the owner of my guest house told me a few secrets about Angkor. One was the bike path on the wall where I ran into all the monkeys. Another was a tree house near the east entrance.

I tried to find it once but got completely lost. The landmines problem in Cambodia is well known. Amputees are everywhere. Everywhere. If you were going to list the five worst places in the world to get lost in the jungle, Cambodia would probably make the list.

I got lost.

I stuck to the trails, but I was still a bit panicky. I found a little village off the main road and asked for directions. No one there spoke a word of English (and I don't speak Khmer) but I was asking directions to Angkor Wat -- you know, the biggest tourist attraction in Southeast Asia?

I pulled out a map and indicated where the temple was on the map and asked how to get there. There was a crowd of about 10 people around, laughing at me, and understandably so. One guy took charge and confidently pointed me down the road.

I was confused. I pointed in another direction. He shook his firmly and again pointed the other way. So off I went, not realizing until later that he couldn't read the map and was trying to save face in front of his friends and family...

So I crashed through the brush for about an hour. The sun was starting to set. The thought of being trapped in the Cambodia jungle at night focused my thinking. I could see the sun. I could hear cars. If I walked in the direction of the sun (towards the temple) and the sound of the cars I would come to a road.

I eventually did, but literally miles from where I thought I was. I was really, really lost. I hailed a tuk-tuk driver who charged me way too much to take me back to my bike and headed over to Angkor Wat to watch one last sunset. When I got back to the guest house the owner and I had a laugh over the story. He told me I was basically looking on the wrong corner.

When I went back to Siem Reap for one day last month I decided to find the treehouse. To get it you go to the east entrance of the park. I asked a little girl who selling guidebooks where to go and she motioned for me to walk parallel to the moat. After about 100 yards I saw a narrow path leading into the woods. You can see the treehouse from moat, but you have to look pretty high to see it.

I was expecting a platform 20 or 30 feet off the ground.

Oh no.

This thing has six levels connected by incredibly steep steps and it is high. I'd say at least 100 feet. There were three local kids coming down who got a big kick out of watching me navigate the steps. They were coming down as I was coming up. They were gone by the time I reached the top. I had the whole thing to myself.



The view of Angkor Wat wasn't the best, but it's a view few people see.



I've met many, many people who have been to Angkor Wat but not one who knew about the treehouse. So my thanks to Erich, the owner of the Prince Mekong Villa, for letting me in on the secret. Which is no longer a secret, of course, since I would need both hands to count all the people who read this blog.

When I got back to my bike I thanked the little girl who had helped me. I taught her the word 'treehouse' and gave her some money. I made a point to hold up the money and point to the treehouse. I saw the light go on in her head. She realized she might make a little money by telling tourists about it. Or so I hope